pattern .book .pdfPattern تعليم الخياطة -توفير كتب خياطة عربية وعالمية-توفير باترونات كاملة -توفير مجلات الباترونات

تحميل كتاب طريقة بروفايلي المجلد 2- الدرس الرابع والعشرون والاخير

تحميل كتاب طريقة بروفايلي المجلد 2- الدرس الرابع والعشرون والاخير 

تكوين الجسم

ان الهيكل النسائي متموج ومتنوع بطبيعته ولكونه من جوهر لدن ومرن فيمكن على حد القول ادخال تعديلات عليه بفضل انواع الخدع الصناعية مما يجعل هيئته العامة تتنوع وتتشكل 
ودرجات هذا التنوع لاتظهر في اغلب الاوقات للعين الغير متمرنة بيد انها حقيقة واقعية تجعل الهيئة النسائية صعبة الايضاح والتحديد ويعني انه يصعب توحيدها ويمكن ان تعد على كل حال اقل بكثير من التكوين الرجالي المتنوع هو الاخر رغم ارتكازه على الهيكل العظمي وعلى العضلات وعلى تغيير شكلها المتوقع نوعا ما
هذه الاختلافات العديدة تكون عنصرا رئيسيا لدى الحائك الذي يقوم بالتفصيل على ضوء المقاسات وكذلك لدى مبتدع الازياء يعكس حائك الملابس الجاهزة او صانعها بالجملة ولانريد من وراء ذلك ان نقلل من قيمة هذا الاخير الذي يؤدي للنساء اليوم خدمات جليلة وكذلك للموضة التي يتبع تطوراتها عن كثب بل ويوجهها احيانا 
اننا نريد بصفة خاصة الاشارة الى وجود حد لايستطاع اجتيازه 
للوصول الى رد الاشكال النسائية الى قاعدة موحدة 


مواضيع هدا الفصل من الكتاب 
نماذج مقاسات الصدر 
عموميات 
مقاسات نموذجية
حدود التغييرات لعر الظهر 
التي يمكن ان تنتج اما حسب مقاس مباشر 
واما حسب جدول المقاسات النموذجية 
قواعد عامة خاصة بتطبيق المقاسات المباشرة او النموذجية 
تصحيحات بسيطة تجرى في التخطيط حسب مظهر الشخص 
عند اخذ المقاسات او على ضوء الصور النصفية الماخوذة من الوجه والجانب 
كم راسي رجلان اي قطعة واحدة وعرض ظهر صغير 
توزيع متساو للوسع المضاف الى بالطوا او سترة او كازاك
خياطة الجنب 
ارتفاع الابط مع كورساج ذي كتف عادي
فهرس 

لتحميل هذا الجزء من الكتاب 
رابط التحميل


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Download patternmaking for fashion design ch30, 31, 32, 33

Download patternmaking for fashion design ch30, 31, 32, 33

Chapter 30
Swimwear

MAILLOT FOUNDATION .
Maillot Draft
Basic Tank-Top Maillot
Maillot with Bra Lining
Princess Maillot
Maillot with Inset Bra
Asymmetric Maillot
BIKINI FOUNDATION
Bikini Based on Maillot or Leotard Foundation .
Bikini Based on Front Skirt Foundation
BIKINI BOTTOM VARIATIONS
High-Cut Leg Bikini
BIKINI TOP VARIATIONS
Princess-Line Bikini Top
Strap Variations
Bra Top with Horizontal Styleline
Bra Tops for Bikini Bottoms
String-a-Long Bikini Top .
Bandeau Bikini Top
LITTLE-BOY LEGLINE FOUNDATION .
Little-Boy Legline Variations
Little-Boy Draft
FULL-FIGURE SWIM FOUNDATION
Full-Figure Swim Draft
Swimsuit with Skirt Front
SUPPLIES AND SPECIAL INFORMATION
Use of Elastic
Finishing Crotch and Shoulder
Bra Cups for Swimwear
Attaching Straps to Swimsuit .


Chapter 31
Introduction to Childrens wear

Childrens wear Challenges
Color and Functional Clothing
Representative Sizes
Size Grouping .
Observable Differences
SIZE CATEGORIES FOR CHILDRENSWEAR
Infants or Babies
Toddlers
Children .
Boys and Girls (Preteen)
Young Juniors
Juniors
SIZING METHODS
Alternate Sizing
SOURCES OF INSPIRATION
Children’s Fashion References

Chapter 32
Drafting the Basic Pattern Set Measurement 

Takingand Standard Measurement Charts
MEASURING THE FORM—CHILDREN,3 TO 6X; GIRLS,7 TO 14; AND BOYS,7 TO 14 . . .
STANDARD MEASUREMENT CHART FOR BOYS AND GIRLS
STANDARD MEASUREMENT CHART FOR GIRLS .
BASIC PATTERN SET FOR GIRLS AND BOYS .

Download ch32, 33 here

Chapter 33
COLLARS .

COLLAR DESIGNS .
1.Shirt Collar
2.Sailor Collar
3.Peter Pan Collar
4.Collar and Stand  .
DARTLESS SLEEVE FOUNDATION .
Dartless Sleeve Draft
SLEEVES
1.Puff Sleeve
2.Leg-o-Mutton
3.Petal Sleeve
4.Bell Sleeve .
SLEEVE DESIGN VARIATIONS
Cap Sleeve—Design 1 .
Ruffled Sleeve—Design 2
Saucer Sleeve—Design 3
Baby Puff Sleeve—Design 4
Drawstring Sleeve
SKIRTS
1.Tiered Skirts
2.Cascades/Partial Circler
3.Gore Skirt
4.Pleated Skirt
5.Full Circle Skirt
Flared Skirt
Gathered Skirt with Stylized Waist Band
Yoked Circular Skirt


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Download pstternmaking ch 26, 27, 28, 29

Patternmaking for fashion design
free pdf download 
book download

Chapter 26

Pants
BIFURCATED—WHAT’S THAT? .
PANT TERMINOLOGY . .
ANALYSIS OF THE PANT FOUNDATIONS .
The Principle .
SUMMARY OF THE PANT FOUNDATIONS .
MEASURING FOR THE PANT DRAFT
CULOTTE—FOUNDATION 1
TROUSER—FOUNDATION 2
SLACK—FOUNDATION 3
JEAN—FOUNDATION 4
Dartless Jean Pant
COMPLETING THE PANT PATTERN
How to Balance the Pant Patterns
Seam Allowance
Box-Pleated Culotte
Culottes with Long,Wide-Sweeping Hemlines .
Pleated Trouser
Pocket Draft for Trouser
Cutting the Trouser Patterns .
Finishing Methods
Sewing Instructions for the Pocket
Attaching the Zipper .
Waist Band Loops
Waist Band
THE DUNGAREES FOUNDATION .
The Foundation Draft .
Dungarees Chic .
Baggy Pant .
Hip Hop Pant .
Pull-On Pant with Self-Casing .
High-Waist Pant .
Jean with V-Yoke .
Contour Pant with Creaseline Flare .
Pant with Flared Leg .
Pant with Curved Hemline .
PANT DERIVATIVES .
Names and Terms .
Developing Pant Derivatives .
Short Shorts .
Short,Jamaica,and Bermuda Pants .
Pedal-Pushers,Toreador Pants,and Capri Pants
Design Variations .
JUMPSUIT FOUNDATIONS
Trouser/Slack Jumpsuit Foundations .
Great Coverall .
PANT FIT PROBLEMS/CORRECTIONS .
Model #1 Proper Stance
Model #2 Fit Problems .
Analyzing the Fit of the pant


Chapter27

Knits—Stretch and Shrinkage Factors
INTRODUCTION .
STRETCH AND RECOVERY FACTOR .
Stretch Factor .
Recovery Factor .
Variance in Stretch .
STRETCH AND RECOVERY GAUGE .
CLASSIFICATION OF KNIT
DIRECTION OF STRETCH .
ADAPTING PATTERNS TO KNITS .
The Shrinkage Factor .
The Stretch Factor .

Chapter 28

Knit Top Foundations
TYPES OF KNIT FOUNDATIONS .
DARTLESS STRETCHY KNIT—DRAFT 1
DARTLESS FIRM KNIT—DRAFT 2
OVERSIZED KNIT TOP—DRAFT 3
Cotton Knit Top Draft .
Ribbing .
CROP TOP WITH A MUSCLE SLEEVE .
KNIT TOP .


Chapter 29

Activewear for Dance and Exercise
BODYSUITS AND LEOTARDS .
THE BODYSUIT FOUNDATION
LYCRA SLEEVE DRAFT
No-Side-Seam Bodysuit
One-Piece Bodysuit
BODYSUIT DESIGN VARIATIONS
Bodysuit with Scooped Neck and Cut-Outs
Bodysuit with High-Neck Halter
Separated Bodysuit
Tights
Stirrups
LEOTARD FOUNDATION
All-in-One Leotard
Color-Block Design for Leotard
Leotard with Raglan Sleeves
Basic Tank Leotard
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Patternmaking ch26, 27, 28, 29

Chapter 26
Pants
BIFURCATED—WHAT’S THAT? .
PANT TERMINOLOGY . .
ANALYSIS OF THE PANT FOUNDATIONS .
The Principle .
SUMMARY OF THE PANT FOUNDATIONS .
MEASURING FOR THE PANT DRAFT
CULOTTE—FOUNDATION 1
TROUSER—FOUNDATION 2
SLACK—FOUNDATION 3
JEAN—FOUNDATION 4
Dartless Jean Pant
COMPLETING THE PANT PATTERN
How to Balance the Pant Patterns
Seam Allowance
PANT DESIGNS
Box-Pleated Culotte
Culottes with Long,Wide-Sweeping Hemlines .
Pleated Trouser
Pocket Draft for Trouser
Cutting the Trouser Patterns .
Finishing Methods
Sewing Instructions for the Pocket
Attaching the Zipper .
Waist Band Loops
Waist Band
THE DUNGAREES FOUNDATION .
The Foundation Draft .
Dungarees Chic .
Baggy Pant .
Hip Hop Pant .
Pull-On Pant with Self-Casing .
High-Waist Pant .
Jean with V-Yoke .
Contour Pant with Creaseline Flare .
Pant with Flared Leg .
Pant with Curved Hemline .
PANT DERIVATIVES .
Names and Terms .
Developing Pant Derivatives .
Short Shorts .
Short,Jamaica,and Bermuda Pants .
Pedal-Pushers,Toreador Pants,and Capri Pants
Design Variations .
JUMPSUIT FOUNDATIONS
Trouser/Slack Jumpsuit Foundations .
Great Coverall .
PANT FIT PROBLEMS/CORRECTIONS .
Model #1 Proper Stance
Model #2 Fit Problems .
Analyzing the Fit of the pant


Chapter27
Knits—Stretch and Shrinkage Factors
INTRODUCTION .
STRETCH AND RECOVERY FACTOR .
Stretch Factor .
Recovery Factor .
Variance in Stretch .
STRETCH AND RECOVERY GAUGE .
CLASSIFICATION OF KNIT
DIRECTION OF STRETCH .
ADAPTING PATTERNS TO KNITS .
The Shrinkage Factor .
The Stretch Factor .
Chapter 28
Knit Top Foundations
TYPES OF KNIT FOUNDATIONS .
DARTLESS STRETCHY KNIT—DRAFT 1
DARTLESS FIRM KNIT—DRAFT 2
OVERSIZED KNIT TOP—DRAFT 3
Cotton Knit Top Draft .
Ribbing .
CROP TOP WITH A MUSCLE SLEEVE .
KNIT TOP .

Download ch27, 28, 29
Chapter 29
Activewear for Dance and Exercise
BODYSUITS AND LEOTARDS .
THE BODYSUIT FOUNDATION
LYCRA SLEEVE DRAFT
No-Side-Seam Bodysuit
One-Piece Bodysuit
BODYSUIT DESIGN VARIATIONS
Bodysuit with Scooped Neck and Cut-Outs
Bodysuit with High-Neck Halter
Separated Bodysuit
Tights
Stirrups
LEOTARD FOUNDATION
All-in-One Leotard
Color-Block Design for Leotard
Leotard with Raglan Sleeves
Basic Tank Leotard
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تحميل كتاب طريقة بروفايلي الدرس الثالث والعشرون

تحميل كتاب طريقة بروفايلي الدرس الثالث 
والعشرون

كم مقصوص بامتداد الكتف


فورمات كيمونومركبة ورجلان


محتويات هذا الفصل من الكتاب

كم كيمونو بامتدداد الكتف عمق 8 سم 
كم كيمونو بامتدداد الكتف عمق 14 سم 
كم كيمونو مقوس افقي في اعلى منحرف في اسفل  عمق 8 سم 
كم كيمونو بامتدداد الكتف عمق15 سم 
كم كيمونو مقصوص بوضع افقي عمق 15 سم 
كم كيمونو بامتدداد الكتف عمق 18 سم 
كم كيمونو مقصوص افقيا او بانحراف عكسي يسمى خفاش 
عمق 21 سم اي عند المستوى التقريبي للوسط 
اكمام كيمونو بامتداد الكتف ذات شكل اسطواني 
كم كيمونو مقوس وضع افقي في اعلى وضع منحرف في اسفل منفاخ مكسم محور عند 8
كم كيمونو بامتداد الكتف منفاخ مكسم محور عند 12
ايبوليت للكم بامتداد الكتف كم كيمونو بامتداد الكتف 
منفاخ مكسم ممتد محور عند 12  
كم مقوس افقي في اعلى متعارض في اسفل 
منفاخ مكسم محور عند 15
كم مركب او رجلان مقصوص بامتداد الكتف حردة الى 6سم
كم مركب اسفل حافة الكتف وتجويف الحردة

لتحميل هذا الفصل من الكتاب 



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Patternmaking for fashion design pdf download ch22, 23, 24, 25

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Chapter22
Women’s Jackets and Coats





JACKET AND COAT FOUNDATIONS 
Two Jacket Foundations
Jacket and Coat Terms .
Inner Support—Terms and Definitions . 
Basic Jacket and Coat Foundations . 
THE JACKET AND COAT SLEEVES . 
Cap Ease .
Grading the Jacket/Coat Sleeves .
Tailored Two-Piece Sleeve .
COLLAR/LAPEL DESIGNS . 
Basic Notch Collar/Lapel . 
Low-Notch Lapel . 
Potrait Collar and Lapel .
DOUBLE-BREASTED JACKET .
DESIGN VARIATIONS . 
SHAWL FOUNDATION .
Shawl Collar Variations .
Wide Shawl Collars .
Shawl Collar with Separated UndercollarandFacing .
STYLE JACKET . 
ONE-PIECE JACKET/COAT FOUNDATIONS .
Collar and Lapel Styles for the Tailored Jacket . 
Transferring Dart to Neckline . 
Tailored Collar . .
The Wrap-Around Style .
THE THREE PANEL STYLE .
EVALUATING THE FIT OF THE JACKET . 
Chapter 23

Men’s Wear

INTRODUCTION TO MEN’S WEAR .
Draft Projects for Men’s Wear . 
Forms and Their Characteristics . 
Measuring for a Personal Draft .
Measurement Chart: Form and Personal Fit .
YOUNG MEN’S MEASUREMENT CHART . 
MATURE MALE MEASUREMENT CHART .
DRAFTING THE MEN’S JACKET FOUNDATION 
Jacket Sleeve Measurement Chart .
Basic Jacket Sleeve Draft . 
DESIGNING WITH THE JACKET FOUNDATION .
Collar and Lapel Classic Designs . 
Color Codes . 
Pattern Information . 
JACKET CONSTRUCTION . .
Preparing Fabric .
Estimating Yardage . 
Supplies Needed . 
Applying Interfacing 
Assembling the Jacket
FITTING ANALYSIS AND CORRECTIONS .
THE SHIRT FOUNDATION .
Shirt Sleeve Measurements
Placket Design .
THE CASUAL SHIRT
THE VEST 
BASIC PANT FOUNDATION FOR TROUSER .
Trouser Draft .
SLACK FOUNDATION . 
Slack Draft .
JEAN FOUNDATION . 
SPECIAL INFORMATION FOR ALL PANTS 
Pant Welt Pocket—Practice Welt 

Chapter 24

Capes and Hoods

CAPES 
A-Line Cape Foundation 
Flared Cape Foundation .
HOODS .
How to Measure for the Hood Draft .
Contoured Hood Foundation 
Contoured Hood Design .
Loose Hood Foundation .
Chapter25

Knock-Off Copying Ready-MadeDesigns

INTRODUCTION 
KNOCK-OFF METHODS
T-TOPS 
SHIRT TYPES 
PANT TYPES 
JACKET COPY 

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Patternmaking for fashion design pdf download ch18, 19, 20, 21

Patternmaking for fashion design pdf download
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Chapter 18

Dresses WithoutWaistline Seams(Based on Torso Foundation)

TORSO FOUNDATION 
Torso Draft 
Contour Guidelines 
DRESS CATEGORIES .
THE THREE BASIC DRESS FOUNDATIONS 
Knit Dress Designs 
Shirtmaker Dresses 
The Sheath (Fitted Silhouette) . 
The Box-Fitted Silhouette .
The Shift (Semi-Fitted Silhouette) . 
PRINCESS-LINE FOUNDATION . 
Stylized Princess with Bloused Hem .
PANEL DRESS FOUNDATION 
EMPIRE FOUNDATION . 
TENT FOUNDATION 
SPECIAL PATTERNMAKING PROBLEMS 
Gathers Crossing Dart Areas
Stylelines Crossing Dart Areas 
Stylized One-Piece Front . 
THE ULTIMATE TESTS .












Chapter 19
Strapless Foundation and Interconstruction

INTRODUCTION TO STRAPLESS GARMENTS 
STRAPLESS PRINCESS BODICE FOUNDATIONS 1 AND 2 .
PRINCESS WITH GATHERED PANELS 
BRA-TOP TORSO FOUNDATION .
PRINCESS TORSO FOUNDATION .
FITTING PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS 
UNDERSUPPORT FOR STRAPLESS GARMENTS 
Light-Weight Interconstruction . 
Heavy-Weight Interconstruction .
Types of Boning 
Lining,Boning,and Closure .
Preparing Strapless Patterns for the Undersupport . 
BUSTIER,CORSELET,AND WASPIE FOUNDATIONS .
GROMMETS AND LACING .
BUSC CLOSURE 



Chapter 20
Patternmaking for Bias-Cut Dresses

INTRODUCTION .
NATURE OF BIAS-CUT FABRIC .
PATTERNMAKING FOR BIAS-CUT GARMENTS . 
TWO METHODS FOR REDUCING BIAS 
STRETCH . 
FABRIC SUGGESTIONS FOR BIAS-CUT GARMENTS .
SLIP DRESS WITH A SLINKY SKIRT 
TWIST BODICE WITH A SLINKY SKIRT .
ALL-IN-ONE BIAS DRESSES 
DESIGN VARIATIONS .

Chapter21
Shirts
SHIRT AND BLOUSE FOUNDATIONS .
Three Shirt and Blouse Foundations .
Basic Shirt and Blouse Draft . 
Basic Shirt Sleeve Foundation .
Yoke Shirt .
Sleeve Hemline Options
Closure Options .
Shirt Facing and Band Variations .
Hidden Button/Buttonhole Closure .
CASUAL SHIRT AND SLEEVE FOUNDATION 
Casual Shirt Draft . 
Oversizing the Shirt . 
PEASANT BLOUSE 

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download patternmaking for fashion design ch14, 15, 16, 17

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Chapter 14
Sleeves

INTRODUCTION . 
Set-in Sleeve . .
Terminology 
Elbow Dart Variations . 
Shoulder Pads . .
SLEEVE CUFFS .
Basic Shirt Cuff 
Self-Faced Cuff .
French Cuff (Used with Cufflinks) . 
Contoured Cuff . 
Roll-Up Cuff .
CAP SLEEVES 
Jutting Cap .
DARTLESS SLEEVE PATTERN . 
MODIFYING ARMHOLE TO REDUCE SLEEVE CAP EASE .
Options 
PUFF SLEEVES 
Fullness at Hem .
Fullness at Cap
Fullness at Hem and Cap .
CIRCULAR HEMLINE SLEEVES .
Half-Circle Sleeves .
Bell Sleeves .
PETAL SLEEVES 
Plain Petal—Design 1 .
Gathered Petal—Design 2 .
Flared Petal—Design 3 .
LANTERN SLEEVES .
Long Lantern Sleeve—Design 1 .
Short Lantern Sleeve—Design 2 



Chapter 15
Kimono,Raglan,Drop Shoulder,and Exaggerated Armholes

INTRODUCTION TO SLEEVE-BODICE COMBINATIONS .
BASIC KIMONO . 
Kimono Draft .
Short-Sleeve Kimono .
BASIC DOLMAN . 
ONE-PIECE COMBINATIONS . 
Kimono with Shoulderline Seam . 
Kimono Without Overarm Seam .
KIMONO TORSO FOUNDATION .
KIMONO DRESS .
CAFTAN .
KIMONO WITH GUSSETS 
RAGLAN SLEEVE .
One-Piece Raglan . 
RAGLAN DESIGN AND VARIATIONS .
Armhole Princess .
Yoke with Flare Sleeve .
Raglan Drop Shoulder .
DROP SHOULDER .
\Drop Shoulder Draft 
Drop Shoulder Variations 
Designs Based on Raglan Foundation 
EXAGGERATED ARMHOLES 
Deep-Cut Square Armhole .
SELF-EVALUATION TEST 

Chapter 16
Buttons,Buttonholes,and Facings

BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLES .
Basic Types of Buttons .
Types of Buttonholes .
Button/Buttonhole Extension .
Button and Buttonhole Placement Guide . 
FACINGS .
Stitched Facings 
Fold-Back Facings . 
Facing Types .
Facings for Cut-Out Necklines and Armholes . 
SELF-EVALUATION TEST .


Chapter17
Placketsand Pockets

PLACKETS 
Pointed Placket with Facing-in-One .
Wing Collar Placket 
Slit Opening with Placket .
POCKETS .
Pocket Classification
Inserted Seam Pocket .
Jean Pocket 
Pocket-in-One with the Side Seam .
Accordion Pocket .
Stylized Outside Pocket 
Lift-Away Pocket .
Pocket with Hidden Side Seam . . . . . . . . . . . .



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LA TECNICA DEI MODELLI Neonato - Bambino part2

LA TECNICA DEI MODELLI Neonato - Bambino free download
free pdf download

لمحبي كتب باترونات الاطفال
نقدم اول كتاب من السلسلة الايطالية لتعليم التفصيل
وتتكون من عدة اجزاء
ولدينا هنا الجزء الخاص بالاطفال
يحتوي هذا الكتاب على العديد من النماذج والباترونات الخاصة بها
للاطفال لمختلف الاعمار
وهناك العديد من الباترونات ايضا الخاصة بالمواليد





لتحميل الكتاب 






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Download LA TECNICA DEI MODELLI Neonato - Bambino

LA TECNICA DEI MODELLI Neonato - Bambino free download
free pdf download

لمحبي كتب باترونات الاطفال
نقدم اول كتاب من السلسلة الايطالية لتعليم التفصيل
وتتكون من عدة اجزاء
ولدينا هنا الجزء الخاص بالاطفال
يحتوي هذا الكتاب على العديد من النماذج والباترونات الخاصة بها
للاطفال لمختلف الاعمار
وهناك العديد من الباترونات ايضا الخاصة بالمواليد






لتحميل الكتاب 



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download Patternmaking for fashion design ch 9, 10, 11, 12, 13

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Chapter 9
Contouring(Principle #3)

CONTOURING:
PRINCIPLE #3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .159
Contour Designs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .159
Figure versus Basic Garment . . . . . . . . . . . . . .160
Fitting Problems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .160
THE CONTOUR GUIDE PATTERNS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .161
Preparing the Contour Guide Patterns . . . . . .161
Measure the Depth of the Hollow Areas and Chart the Patterns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .162
Guideline 1—Cutout Necklines . . . . . . . . . . . .162
Guideline 2—Cutout Armholes . . . . . . . . . . . .162
Guideline 3—Armhole Ease . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .163
Guideline 4—Empire Styleline . . . . . . . . . . . . .163
Guideline 5—Contour Between the Busts . . .164
Guideline 6—Strapless Designs . . . . . . . . . . . .164
Shoulder Slope and Side Ease . . . . . . . . . . . . .165
Guideline 7—Back . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .165
How to Use the Contour Guide Patterns . . . .166
THE CLASSIC EMPIRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .169
Empire with Shirred Midriff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .171
SURPLICE (OR WRAP) DESIGNS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .173
Pattern for Left Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .174
Pattern for Right Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .174
OFF-SHOULDER DESIGNS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .175
Gathered Shoulder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .175
HALTERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .177
V-Neck Halter . . . .


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Chapter 10
Collars

INTRODUCTION .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .179
COLLAR TERMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .179
COLLAR STAND AND ROLL TYPES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .180
COLLAR CLASSIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .180
BASIC SHIRT COLLAR FOUNDATION . . . . . . . . . . . . .181
Straight Collar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .181
Undercollar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .182
Folded Basic Collar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .183
Collar Variations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .183
Fit Problems of the Collar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .184
PETER PAN COLLARS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .185
Principle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .185
Relationship of the Collar’s Stand,Width,and Neckline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .185
Three Basic Peter Pan Collars . . . . . . . . . . . . . .185
Peter Pan with 1-Inch Stand (Full-Roll) . . . . . . .186
Peter Pan with 1/2-Inch Stand (Partial-Roll) . .187
Peter Pan with Flat-Roll . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .187
SAILOR COLLAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .188
Basic Sailor Collar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .188
Sailor with Extension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .189
Sailor with Inset . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .190
COLLARS WITH DEEP,OPEN NECKLINES . . . . . . . . . .191
Collar for V-Neck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .191
Collar for Stylized Neckline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .191
MANDARIN COLLAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .192
Basic Mandarin—Design 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .192
Mandarin Collar Variations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .193
COLLAR WITH STAND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .194
WIDE COLLAR AND STAND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .195
COLLARANDSTANDAWAYFROMTHEBASICNECKLINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .196
ALL-IN-ONE COLLAR AND STAND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .197
ROLL COLLARS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .198
Turtle Neck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .198
Roll Collar with Cutaway Neck . . . . . . . . . . . .199
COLLAR DESIGN VARIATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200
SELF-EVALUATION TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200


Chapter 11
Built-Up Necklines

BUILT-UP NECKLINES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .202
Stovepipe Neckline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .202
Built-Up Bateau Neckline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204
INSET BANDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .206
Rounded Inset Band . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .206
Inset Band Variations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .207

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Chapter12
Cowls












Chapter 13
Skirts/Circles and Cascades


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